Installation instructions

The floor boards can be installed in two ways, floating or fixed.

Installing a floating floor

When using the floating method, always apply a moisture-isolating PE-foam (of at least 0.15 mm thickness) and water tighten the seams using tape. Then apply a soundproofing layer. This material also has an equalising function.

Start the installation against a long, straight wall. Put the first floor board down with the groove against the wall. Place a 11 mm spacer between the wall and the board to keep the expansion seam open. This expansion seam needs to be maintained all around the room, including doorways, pipes, etc. 24 Hours after the completion of the installation, the spacers should be removed.

Dot water resistant PVAC wood glue (D3 wood glue) on the tongue of the second floor board. Wipe any glue residue with a dry cloth before the glue has dried. Lay the second floor board in the extension of the first andpush the short sided tongue and groove together. Tap the second panel into the first and make sure the seams are completely closed. The last floor board of the first row has to be sawn to size. Complete the row with the sawn part and start the second row with the left over part of the floor board. The short pieces of two adjoining rows have to be spaced out as far as possible. In order to get a stable floor the absolute minimum is 50cm. Make sure that the first two rows are perpendicular and well connected. Keep a tightly strung cord above the seam to see if the fl oor is straight. Carefully tap the short and long sides together, using a tapping block and mallet. Never hit the tongue or groove directly with the tools. The final row is installed by sawing the fl oor boards to size lengthwise. With the help of the crowbar you push the boards of the last row into place.

  • The floating method is not recommended for the following references: 20-CLASSIC-80x80-BRUT-VERSAILLES and 15-CUBE-190-BRUT.

Installing a fixed floor

1. Cemented sub-floors: Check if the quality of the cement sub-floor is good. That means the there is a sturdy cement sub-floor composed of ± 300 to 320 kg of cement per m³ sand. If that is the case, you can glue the floor boards immediately to the sub-floor. If in doubt, ask the advice of your point of sales.

2. If the cement sub-floor is of poor quality, you need to use an intermediate floor out of wood panels (plywood, OBS-board of 12 or 18 mm, no fibreboard). Glue the chipboard to the floor and nail it down in strips of 15cm (horizontally and vertically). Lay the panels in stretching bond.

3. If the cemented floor is of poor quality, you should drill the boards into the concrete. Gluing will then not be necessary.

The floor boards can now be glued to the chipboard sub-floor (glue the bottom side of the boards completely and evenly, avoiding to get glue into the tongue and groove. During gluing, hammer a small nail aslant into the side of the boards. Space the nails out evenly every meter. This avoids the boards to slide while the glue is still drying.

Keep the following points in mind when installing your floor

Before installation

Leave the floor boards to acclimatise for 72 hours in its original packaging and in the room where they are to be installed. Store them horizontally and flat.

Adapt the doors

Check if after putting in your sub-floor and floor boards the doors still open and close properly.

Apply a moisture-isolating PE-foam underlay

The seams need to be absolutely watertight. Apply the foam up to plinth height behind the skirting boards.

Don’t forget the expansion seams

if the floor is larger than 6 m and/or longer than 12m, make sure you provide expansion seams of +/-11 mm.

Use spacers

They are necessary to keep equal distances between the floor and the walls. Provide expansion seams of 11mm all around the floor. Remove the spacers 24 hours after installation.

The crowbar

Use a crowbar to connect the heads of the boards

The tapping block

Use the tapping Block to connect the floor boards without damaging them.

Fitting the last row

Lay the boards with the decor side under and the groove against the wall. Then mark and saw. Do not forget the prescribed expansion seam.